Adventure Travel Blog

Vacation by Sea and  Vacation by Land

A Combo Vacation Package in the Caribbean

First few days by land next few days by sailing the islands last few days by land

Mix and match anyway you wish for convenience we recommend at least the first night on land (most flights from the states come in mid day to late afternoon)

The best of both worlds St. Thomas’s most reasonably priced accommodations with a view that even the top resorts can’t rival and sailing and exploring the beautiful Virgin Islands with a unique romantic anchorage each evening.

Can’t decide whether to spend your vacation in a Caribbean Mountain Site Hotel or on a sailing yacht? You can have both at the Mafolie Hotel and SailingWithTerry.

Stay at the Mafolie where the hotel clings to the side of Mafolie Hill, overlooking the harbor and downtown. Enjoy pool deck and the canopied restaurant at sunset when cruise ships set out from port, and the lights on the surrounding hillsides flicker on. You can take a cruise ship to the BVI, but you won’t have access to some of the places that SailingWithTerry go too. You can’t even fly in and rent a car on some of these islands. These are places where no one goes, except by chartered yacht or sailboat. Best of all you plan the agenda not the cruise director. The dinghy hitched to the back of the boat is used to disembark and motor to excursions on land.

Guests (sailors) of SailWithTerry.com design their own itinerary upon reaching their embarking place in the Virgin Islands. Unique outings could include a deserted island (Sandy Spit), about one acre in size and with only one palm tree; an island of 200 inhabitants (Jost van Dyke) with native restaurants; fresh-catch 3-pound lobster fests (Anegada); and one-bar outposts with local drinks and native music (the Painkiller at Soggy Dollar Bar in White Bay). Want to change your itinerary during the cruise? No problem, mate.

Captain Terry says, “We teach our guests to sail if they want to you chose the activity level and the amount of participation. As soon as we’re out of the harbor, we switch from motor power to wind power. We put our guest sailors behind the helm and help them put up the sails. Being on the water is one thing, but sailing the boat is part of the experience, part of the enjoyment of the vacation.”

Captain Terry makes sure his guests are aware of all the activities available, including snorkeling, swimming, scuba diving, biking, hiking, wind surfing and kayaking. If you like, he will even take time from his captain duties to lead guide an expedition to a prime snorkeling site (and there are many in the Virgin Islands). Maybe you prefer to find a sunny spot on the boat to loll away the hours listening to the gentle lapping of the sea?

Summertime is off-season for the Caribbean, making it the perfect time of year for a more solitary experience with this combo package. Both the hotel and the boat take advantage of the Trade Winds provide constant cooling and the clear, turquoise salt water is a perfect 81 degrees for no-shock diving and swimming.

A half day sail from the glitz and glamour of St Barths lays the tiny Dutch island of St. Eustatius or Statia (pronounced Stay-sha) as it is known by the locales. The first impression is that this island is not your typical Caribbean escape for a sailing charter. For one, if approaching from the north, your first glimpse will be of the 2,000 foot dormant volcano that dominates the southern part of the island.
    

With the top cone frequently covered in clouds, it looks imposing. Second, as you near the island, enormous super tankers wait offshore to deposit or retrieve fuel stored duty free in large terminals. Passing by them on a sail boat is rather intimidating and makes you wonder just how commercial is this island. Finally, as you approach the main town and anchorage of Oranjestad, you realize there is no easy access ashore by dinghy. You need to tie up to the ferry dock and literally climb around and over the local fishing and dive boats until you find a footing on the wall to haul yourself up onto.

Well off the beaten path for most sailing charters, for those that make the effort, however, Statia is an irresistible and delightful island. Peace and quiet are what you will find on this small Caribbean hideaway known as, “The Historical Gem”. With only about 3,000 residents (mostly of African descent, Dutch and a handful of expatriates eager to share their story), a lack of tourist development, beaches that are less than memorable and a nightlife that is almost nonexistent, Statia has remained unspoiled.  

No other island is matched in the friendliness of its people towards visitors. Life on Statia is like taking a step back in time. You will feel the warmth as you are greeted as lifelong acquaintances by the locales, including the Governor himself. It is in this uncrowded and unhurried atmosphere that a visitor from a sailing charter will find the perfect place to roam past the historic ruins of this once proud and wealthy trading post between America and Europe, hike the network of trails in and around the Quill or dive a vast underwater landscape just waiting to be explored.

It is hard for present day visitors on a sailing charter to imagine that this tiny island once had one of the busiest ports in the region. During its heyday in the 17th and 18th Century, Statia was known as the, “Golden Rock”. With over 3,000 ships per year, it was the international trading center for the western hemisphere. As the 18th Century drew to a close, Statia gradually lost its importance as a trading center and most merchants and planters left the island, leaving their warehouses and homes. In the 1960’s and 1970’s, the people of Statia realized the cultural value of their unique heritage and initiatives were taken to preserve and maintain their history through the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation and the Marine Park of St. Eustatius. If you are on a sailing charter, you will most likely stay in Oranjestad Bay. Once you manage to get ashore and check in with the Harbor office and Marine Park Office, you are free to wander and explore the island’s rich historical past.

Oranjestad (the only town) is made up of Lower Town and Upper Town. Lower Town, in the harbor area, still has a few remnants of its former glory. As you walk under the cliffs along the mile long harbor, you can still see the ruins of old warehouses and stores that have mostly collapsed into the sea, although the restored Old Gin House provides a glimpse of what Statia looked like in its heyday. Continuing along the road, you will pass Oranje Beach. The beige and black sand is a good place to rest, and snorkeling along the old city seawalls and ruins is good provided there is not a swell which tends to make the surf rather rough.

Upper Town is where Oranjestad currently exists. There are three ways to reach this sprawling town perched on the cliffs above the bay. The first is to follow the paved harbor road from the Harbor office to the far end - about 1 mile. The road then curves sharply and rises steeply up onto the cliffs and into town. This route is easier by car than on foot. The second route is to climb a few deep stone steps behind the Old Gin House which brings you to the cobblestone “Old Slave Road”. This road goes straight up the cliffs.  

It is a lot easier going down than up, but if it is raining do not attempt it at all because the road becomes a waterfall. If you are hardy enough to use this route, the views of the harbor below are spectacular. The third route - often used by the locales- is the goat trail. It can be picked up behind the Marine Park Office and winds its way up the cliffs to the top where it stops in the backyard of a neatly painted white gingerbread trimmed house in the middle of town. Make no mistake - it is literally a goat trail. The goats complained bitterly as my husband and I intruded on their path, but they did move.

Statia’s once great past is readily seen in the charming mix of homes, buildings and ruins of Upper Town. Fort Oranje, strategically situated on the Cliffside overlooking Lower Town and Oranjestad Bay, is the dominant building. It was built in 1629 and restored in 1976. Its cannon, peeking through the old stone and brick wall, commands breathtaking views out to sea looking towards Saba. Outside the fort, the beautifully restored Government Guesthouse is now home to the governor and courthouse.

Nearby, the Sint Eustatius Museum, housed in one of the town’s many 18th century houses, holds an impressive collection of historical finds ranging from Amerindian pottery and tools to colonial glassware and furniture that provides a taste of the high quality of life the island’s merchants once enjoyed. Down an alley, you will find the remains of one of the oldest synagogues in the Caribbean. Built in 1739, this two-story yellow brick building no longer has a roof and is gradually being taken over by vegetation. A few blocks further, the mid-eighteenth century Dutch Reformed Church is also largely abandoned, though the tower was restored in 1981 and the cemetery around it is beautiful.

If trekking up to Upper Town from the harbor is not exercise enough, Statia is a hiker’s paradise for nature lovers. By far the most popular hike is up the Quill, a perfectly formed dormant volcano located on the south end of Statia.

The Quill, designated as a national park in 1998, soars 2000 feet to a perfectly formed crater nearly 1000 feet across. The Marine Park office provides maps or you can take a guided tour with one of the park rangers. A sometimes steep path starts in the outskirts of Oranjestad on the road leading west out of town. The footpath begins in low level scrub and climbs through dry woodlands and lush tropical rainforest to the crater, about a 45 minute walk away. Considering this is rainforest, the path is one of the most well maintained trails we have ever been on! The Panorama Track at the top has breathtaking views overlooking the entire island, as well as views of St. Barths, Saba and St. Martin.    

The Quill National Park has many species of endangered and rare species of flora and fauna, including at least 17 different kinds of orchids, the Antillean iguana, the harmless red-bellied racer snake (found only on Saba and Statia), the Bridled Quail Dove (found only on Statia), exotic black and yellow striped butterflies and purple and orange hermit crabs that look like rolling stones as they tumble toward the sea inside their shells to reproduce before making the arduous return journey back up to the crater.

As well as hummingbirds, there are at least 54 recorded species of birds chirping and flitting through the forest. Once you catch your breath at the top, you can climb down into the crater itself, although since the path is not always easy to follow, it is best to do this with a park ranger. Hikers will find remnants of once cultivated planters’ crops such as coffee, cocoa and cinnamon trees, as well as bananas. An alternative hike is along the slippery Mazinga Trail, with a spectacular view of St. Kitts and Nevis. It is advisable to start out hiking the Quill early in the morning while it is still cool and before the afternoon clouds shroud the volcano top.

Be advised that this is an energetic hike. There are no picnic tables, water fountains or outdoor toilets. If you are the adventurous type, however, this is an exciting and unspoiled way to discover a unique park. Just bring water and perhaps an energy bar.

The history of Statia does not end on land. It is one of the few locations in the world that offers coral reefs, walls, archeological and modern wreck dives in such close proximity. Between 1775 to1800, Statia was the busiest seaport in the world with over 3,000 ships landing per year. With this volume of shipping traffic, it is no wonder that quite a few never left the surrounding sea. There are an estimated 400 ship wrecks around Statia resulting from hurricanes, fires, war, poor maintenance and deliberate sinking. Through both the Statia Marine Park and the St. Eustatius Center for Archaeological Research, American and Dutch archaeologists have conducted extensive work defining the primary anchorage area by carefully mapping the artifact concentrations spread across the sea floor as well as identifying around 40 sunken vessels.

When visiting Statia on a sailing charter, you can choose between near-shore archaeological sites and those that are further offshore. Near Lower Town, just a short swim from shore, snorkelers and divers can view the centuries old stone seawall and explore partially sunken warehouses built along Oranje Bay. The sea bottom is scattered with old ballast stones and other historical remains of the Golden Rock era. Now completely covered in coral, you can find cannon balls, clay pipes and even the blue glass trading beads in popular use during the 18th century. In deeper water, accessibility is only available to divers.

As every artifact is important to learning about the history of Statia, and to ensure that divers do not remove anything from the shipwrecks, diving is only permitted if you go with a local dive shop. There are 3 PADI dive centers located in Lower Town happy to assist in your underwater exploration. There are approximately 30 dive sites around Statia ranging from 30-200 feet.

Visibility often exceeds 100 feet with water temperatures averaging 78-84 degrees. Some of the more spectacular sites include:

Double Wreck: This site is marked by two separate ballast piles from a Dutch ship, sunk between 1720-1730 and an English ship, sunk in 1760. It is surrounded by reef populated with slipper and spiny lobsters.

Triple Wreck: This site consists of two coral-encrusted wrecks lying just 150 feet apart.

Doobies Crack: This site is a large cleft in the face of an underwater reef complex with a sand bottom about 100 feet.

Anchor Reef: A large anchor about 14 feet long and setting upright is found here. There is an extensive variety of corals, fans and sponges, as well as lobsters, sea turtles and many varieties of fish.

Barracuda Reef: This site is a 400 foot vertical ledge.

The Wall: This site is found at the base of the Quill. A steep system of coral pinnacles starts at 90 feet and drops vertically 900 feet or more into a trench. You will see an abundance of sea life here including large fish such as black tip sharks and barracudas.

Other dive sites include the Drop Off (a phenomenal wall); Five Fingers (a series of lava covered reefs); Gibraltar (a pinnacle which rises from great depths to just below the surface); and Stenapa Wrecks (a 45 foot tug boat that is part of an artificial reef). Whether you want to dive a pinnacle, a reef, a wall, wrecks, or an archeological site, Statia has it all. With all the exploring on or off shore, you no doubt will develop an appetite. For a tiny island, Statia has a huge amount of restaurants. With virtually no nightlife, according to Chris Doyle, “the oilmen need something to do”.

Food ranges from the obvious fare at Super Burger; American and Tex-Mex at Smoke Alley; German cuisine at King’s Wall; French and Creole food at Blue Bead; numerous Chinese restaurants, and local dishes at Golden Era Hotel. My husband and I found prices to be extremely reasonable and the amount of food generous. In addition, like everyone we encountered the restaurants owners were beyond friendly and accommodating. The owner at the Chinese Restaurant offered, “You no like my food, you no pay.” (Our plates were clean). One of the co-owners at Blue Bead made us delicious mango and banana milkshakes after our return from the Quill, even though he was between the lunch and dinner hours. And while we were dining on delicious seafood at the open air patio of the Golden Era, one of the oilmen came in mentioning he had a craving for lasagna. Within an hour, he had a huge plate set before him- served with a big smile!

For those on a sailing charter who like a sense of adventure, Statia is an historical gem of a Caribbean island. Whether exploring the ruins of its Golden Rock period in Oranjestad, engaging in a wonderful hiking experience in the Quill National Park, or diving and snorkeling over the wrecks, walls and remains of the 17th and 18th century, Statia is a friendly, peaceful place off the beaten track.

To book your sailing charter, contact http://www.visailing.com/ and discover this hidden treasure of the Caribbean for yourself.  

For yacht charters and more articles on Caribbean Sailing click here.

Caribbean Sailing at it’s best through Virgin Island Sailing Ltd. which offers bareboat, yachts with crew and mega yacht charters, throughout the Caribbean and world wide.

Written By Donna Wolfson
Photographs By Donna Wolfson

• 7 nights accommodation
• Six days of 2 tank dives: 12 dives total
• Breakfast & Dinner Daily
• Transfers, taxes & service fees

$1195 per person

SAVE $100 if you book by March 15^th for travel between March 1^st to May 2^nd only.

(Based on double occupancy and availability)

Last Minute Special

Book a Meet You In Paradise or H20 Fascination package at Brac Reef Beach Resort by February 15th for your March or April 2008 dive vacation, and receive $100 off per person.

This is a great offer for diving enthusiasts. With Cayman Brac and Little Cayman roughly five miles apart, about 30-45 minutes by boat, Brac Reef Beach Resort and its on-site dive shop, renowned Reef Divers II, covers all 26 miles of the Sister Islands, including famous Bloody Bay Wall.

Meet You In Paradise is just right for diving keeners, offering 6 days of 3 tank dives, all meals and 3 drinks per day. Cayman Brac alone offers 120 dive sites, including wrecks, walls and reefs, as well as an underwater city of Atlantis dive site.

H20 Fascination offers divers the flexibility to take in other activities with 6 days of 2 tank dives, and breakfast and dinner daily. Brac Reef also offers kayaking, fishing, hiking, caving, rock climbing, bird watching and biking.

Either package includes 7 nights at a charming, family-owned getaway located on four and a half acres of milky white-sand beachfront. Brac Reef is the only island resort to offer a day spa, pastry chef, internet access and fitness center.

Brac Reef Beach Resort

There is a reason cruisers refer to the British Virgin Islands as, “Nature’s Little Secrets.” The BVI chain contains a stunning variety of islands ranging from the coral atoll of Anegada with its endless white sand beaches to the main island of Tortola with its emerald green mountains. There are the spectacular boulders of Virgin Gorda and the friendly quaint village on Jost Van Dyke, along with the diversity and seclusion of the other islands and cays. Each island has its unique charm and attractions, offering the visitor on a sailing charter an infinite range of experiences, but an amazing world of color and flourishing life lies just below the surface of the turquoise waters surrounding these islands.

One of the easiest ways to explore this warm underwater paradise, with its outstanding visibility, healthy coral, vibrant reefs and abundant fish populations, is by snorkeling. What is most wonderful about snorkeling is that it is easy. There is no heavy gear; no need for special lessons and it is suitable for all ages- from school children to grandparents. Whether swimming from shore, slipping over the side of your dinghy, or simply jumping off the transom of your sailing charter, grab a mask, snorkel and a pair of fins and explore the underwater world of the BVI. If you do not bring your own equipment, many sailing charter bases can provide it to you for a nominal fee.

The British Virgin Islands are known as one of the best sailing and cruising areas in the world. They are also recognized as one of the top dive and snorkel destinations. With so many options, it is nearly impossible to explore the plethora of underwater sites in a typical 1 to 2 week sailing charter. Therefore, following are twelve of my favorite snorkeling spots. All are suitable for the entire family, from novice to experienced snorkeler. In order to protect the coral beds, each of these sites have mooring buoys available from either the National Parks Trust or Moor Seacure.

Leinster Bay

Although located on the north coast of St. John, USVI, this bay is an easy sail from Tortola, however, make sure to check in with Customs if you are coming from the BVI. This well protected, picturesque bay has Watermelon Cay on one end and the Annaberg Sugar Mill ruins on the southwest corner. Land your dingy on the sandy beach, and after making sure it is well secured, snorkel along the shore and out toward Watermelon Cay. The grass flats right off shore are home to sea horses and a variety of hamlets. Follow the rocky shore towards the Cay. Schools of grunts, trunkfish, flounder and parrotfish call the reef home.

On one occasion, we came across a field of about 100 rusty orange sea stars. On another trip, we had the joy of snorkeling alongside sea turtles and rays, as well as coming face to face with a moray eel. The bay is very calm and thus perfect for the novice snorkeler on a sailing charter.

The Bight
The main anchorage on Norman Island is the Bight, an exceptionally well-sheltered anchorage popular with many sailing charterers. Excellent snorkeling exists on the reef at the eastern end of the harbor, just south of the beach. Tie up at the Pirates’ dinghy dock and walk a short distance down the beach just past the gift shop. The reef along the rocky outcrop is incredibly healthy and it extends several hundred yards. Floating peacefully over this garden of sea fans, sponges, parrotfish, wrasse, elk horn and brain corals is a delightful introduction to the BVI’s underwater community. We recently spend nearly 20 minutes hovering over a school of reef squid totally intrigued by their prehistoric appearance.

The Norman Island Caves
Norman Island is famed for its tales of buried treasure, but the caves off Treasure Point offer a different type of booty for snorkelers. A short ride from the Bight, you can tie up your dinghy to the line strung between two small round floats or you may also move your sailing charter and pick up a National Parks mooring during the day. Schools of friendly yellow tails, blue tangs and sergeant majors will follow you into the caves. Bring a flashlight to truly experience the Caves, which shimmer with a pastel coating of orange cup coral and red covering sponge.
Look hard – you may just find some of that buried pirate treasure!

“The Indians”
Considered a daytime stop only, the Indians, a series of tall jagged rocks off Norman Island, are well worth the effort of trying to find a mooring buoy. As part of the National Parks Trust, this area is protected and thus offers spectacular reef snorkeling.

Arrive early – this snorkeling spot is popular and cruisers tend to spend several hours exploring. Four cone-shaped rocks rise from a depth of 40 feet to about 30 feet above the surface. Three rocks stand together while the fourth is separated by a narrow channel. Near the bottom, a myriad of fish fill the narrow passages. Expect to see almost every variety of reef fish and crustacean, as well as schools of harmless jelly fish in the summer. Sea fans and corals of every hue dot the walls. When the sun’s rays spotlight the vibrant colors of this reef, you will know why this site is considered to be one of the best spots for snorkeling in the BVI. It is truly a spectacular site not to be missed on your sailing charter.

Buttonwood Bay Located on the western end of Great Harbour, Peter Island, this bay offers private seclusion as both an anchorage and snorkeling spot. A shallow coral reef begins about 20 yards offshore, beginning in 8 feet of water, slopes gently to approximately 18 feet, and then drops vertically to a depth of 40 feet. There is a marvelous array of small marine life. In fact, swimming through literally thousands of small fish felt somewhat like a sci-fi experience. What is particularly special about this site is the large variety of coral and huge, deep purple sea fans.

The Wreck of the RMS Rhone
Before she was sunk off Salt Island during an 1867 hurricane, the Rhone had been the pride of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. During the storm, she hit Black Rock, broke in two, and promptly sunk. Today, she sits in three well preserved sections on a sandy bottom and her steel wreckage has become home to many species of fish and is gilded with colorful sponges and flourishing corals. The Rhone is now a marine park that is part of the BVI National Parks Trust.

Although preferred as a dive site, snorkelers can still enjoy this spot since much of her decking, rigging, steam engine and propeller are still visible in the section closest to shore. The Rhone is perhaps the most impressive shipwreck in the entire Caribbean.

Manchioneel Bay
Located on the northwest shore of Cooper Island, this anchorage is home of the Cooper Island Beach Club. There is a good sandy beach fringed with palm trees with views of many of the islands to the west. Using the dinghy dock, snorkel along the shoreline heading southwest, just past the guest cottages. This shallow, u-shaped reef has plenty of fish action because of the swiftly flowing currents in the nearby channel between Cooper and Salt Islands and the close proximity to the open sea. You will see large schools of blue tang, clownfish, blueheads, butterfly fish and snapper, several varieties of parrot fish and grunts, and an occasional octopus. Along the sandy bottom, closer to the beach, expect to see sea stars, sea horses, and rays.

Cistern Point
For some excellent snorkeling, take your dingy to the south of Manchioneel Bay to Cistern Point – a large rock rising above the surface. You can tie your dinghy to the line attached to two buoys and snorkel around the rock. The reef is home to hordes of reef fish, crabs, a nurse shark or two, large barracuda, and according to my husband, the largest spiny lobster he has ever seen.

Alice’s Backside
Although Ginger Island is uninhabited and no overnight anchorage is allowed, Alice’s Backside is a good snorkel stop on your way to either Cooper Island or Virgin Gorda. Located on the northwestern tip of Ginger Island, there are only two mooring buoys and they are often occupied by commercial dive operators. If you can find an open buoy, it is worth the stop on your sailing charter. What makes this site unique is that it is a huge sand patch dotted with enormous brain coral and mushroom coral heads. Although our group did not see a lot of fish life other than an occasional ray, the size and beauty of the coral is nonetheless spectacular.

The Baths
When planning a sailing charter around the BVI, it is essential to include the Baths, a spectacular boulder formation on Virgin Gorda’s northwest shore. An extraordinary natural landscape awaits – grottoes created by huge boulders that were scattered by ancient volcanic activity. The sea washes between the huge granite rocks, creating large pools of water that are dramatically lit by shafts of light. A fabulous trail between and over the boulders leads between The Baths and Devil’s Bay – the white sandy beach adjacent to The Baths.
Although the trail is really fun, especially for kids, snorkeling is also good. A myriad of tropical fish live amongst the tunnels and crevices formed be these enormous granite boulders as they meet the sea. For an ambitious adventure, snorkel from Devil’s Bay along the rocks all the way to The Baths. National Park moorings are the only mode of securing your vessel in order to protect the coral. In addition, dinghies cannot be left on the beach. Thus, in order to experience this snorkeling spot, someone will have to drop everyone ashore or you will have to swim ashore from your boat. Either way, prepare to be awe-struck at this marvel of nature!

Great Dog

The Dogs make a good stopping off point for cruisers on their way from North Sound to Jost Van Dyke. The snorkeling is excellent and one of the more common anchorages is on the south side of Great Dog. This area is also part of the National park Mooring System. The reef runs parallel to the island going east-west for approximately 100 yards and drops from 10 feet down to 60 feet. Its rock ledges, overhangs, and cathedral-shaped tunnels and grottoes are home to crabs, lobsters, beautiful fan corals and hordes of reef fish.
Snorkelers will be delighted with the kaleidoscope of colors created by encrusting corals and sponges.

Monkey Point
At the southern tip of Guana Island is a beautiful rocky outcrop known as Monkey Point. After hooking a National Park mooring buoy, your vessel will be surrounded by hordes of bluestriped grunt and yellowtail snapper. As you snorkel towards shore, friendly yellow jacks are very curious and appear to adopt you as part of their school. What is most special about this snorkeling spot is the several sea turtles that make this day anchorage home. It is truly indescribable to gently swim behind one of these creatures as they glide ever so peacefully through the water.

Visitors come to the BVI to enjoy the magnificence of the area’s natural resources – the steady, warm trade winds, glorious sunshine, sandy white beaches, and clear turquoise waters. There is also much to explore with just a snorkel, mask and a pair of fins. A marine park system and mooring buoying program administered by the National Parks Trust is dedicated to the preservation of reefs and marine life. The result is vibrant reefs and abundant fish populations. Accessing this extraordinary undersea world is easy. Contact Melody or Gail at www.visailing.com to arrange your sailing charter and experience “Nature’s Little Secrets” for yourself.

Written By Donna Wolfson
Photographs By Donna Wolfson