Adventure Travel Blog

Okay, so you have been to the British Virgin Islands and you are ready to try something new. How about a sailing vacation to the island of St. Martin? If you are an experienced sailor or you have a crewed charter, and you have an extra week, it is about a 17 hour passage between the BVI and St. Martin.

Or you can simply fly directly into St. Martin and pick up your sailing charter. Regardless of how you get there, St. Maarten/St. Martin has been half Dutch and half French since 1648. The island’s rolling green hills overlook deep set coves that, in the past, provided ideal hiding places for pirates. Today, with unrestricted border crossings, the island is one of the major tourist destinations in the Caribbean, especially as a shopper’s Mecca, with duty-free status on luxury items such as jewelry, watches, cameras, liquor, perfumes, and crystal. With 37 beaches, historical sites to explore, biking and hiking, golfing, luxury hotels, casinos and nightclubs, and a wide choice of excellent restaurants, there is something for every cruiser enjoying a Caribbean sailing charter to this piece of paradise known as, “The Friendly Island.”

St. Martin is suitable for all types of cruisers, including party-goers looking for an active night life, families with young children, and wealthy sailors with their luxury yachts. On the Dutch side, the currency is the Netherlands Antilles Guilder, while on the French side, the euro is the local currency. Most establishments, however, will quote in and accept US dollars. The island has always boasted a wide ethnic mix in its population, including Dutch, French, African, Asian and Indian,creating a melting pot of over 350 dining choices. Traditional French, Dutch, Asian and Creole creations are often fused with Caribbean foods. The island has an amazing array of outdoor activities to keep the Caribbean cruiser amused, including sailing regattas, scuba diving, hiking, and mountain biking. In addition, an excellent variety of water sports including windsurfing and jet skiing are available. The French Orient Beach on the northeastern coast is the center for water sport activity with several places to rent jet skis, windsurfers, snorkeling gear, as well as parasail and boat trips out to nearby Green Cay, Tintamarre and Ilet Pinel.On the Dutch side, Simpson Bay also has plenty of operations renting out similar equipment.

Diving on St. Martin is okay, although certainly not the greatest in the Caribbean . The best dive spots include:
1) Proselyte Reef: The HMS Proselyte sank in 60ft. of water in 1801. The reef surrounding the frigate rises to within 15 ft. of the surface and there are plenty of fish and corals to see, as well as the occasional turtle and ray.
2) Simpson Bay Bridge: In the late 1980’s, the remains of the old bridge were submerged and now serve as an artificial reef for schools of fish. 50 ft. at its deepest, the site also has several nearby wrecks as well as an old aircraft.
3) Split Rock and Cable Reef: Split Rock is a large boulder you can swim through, and Cable Reef is home to many large fish, including pompano. Both sites are at 55 ft.

Another fun activity is sea kayaking. With guided tours, this has become a popular way to explore the island’s beaches, historical sites and mangrove ecosystems. With a dozen or so marinas dotted around the island, and some of the world’s most beautiful yachts moored in them, it is no wonder that many visitors enjoy spending a day on the water. Whether you sail on an America’s Cup winning vessel, spend the day onboard a party boat, or take an excursion on a tall ship, there are many opportunities to explore the waters surrounding St. Martin.

If you are looking for a break from your sailing vacation, St. Martin offers many onshore activities including mountain biking, hiking and horseback riding. Mountain biking tracks are available for all levels of riders.  The Cay Bay and Mullet coasts are particularly friendly for beginners, while the Bellevue loop between Port de Plaisance and Marigot is more demanding. For those looking for an adventuresome hike, Pic Paradis (at 390 meters- the highest point on St. Martin), offers a 3-hour trek over rocky trails and through fields of papayas and bananas up into the rainforest for a fantastic view of the island.

Apart from Pic Paradis, the Sint Maarten National Heritage Foundation has over 25 miles of hiking trails through hills, valleys, cliff tops and beaches. These trails are rated for all levels, and vary in length from 90 minutes to 4 hours. Finally, a horseback ride on the beach is an unforgettable experience, especially if you take one that includes swimming with the horses through the surf. Both Bayside Riding Club and Lucky Stables can accommodate novice or experience riders. Regardless of where you go on St. Martin, paved roads link the major tourist areas. The roads, however, are narrow and sign-posting is limited. The major problem is the sheer volume of traffic, particularly on the Dutch side. Traffic can slow to a crawl or even a standstill, especially when the Simpson bay Bridge rises for yacht traffic. Allow plenty of time to get around.

Although one island, a cruiser from a Caribbean sailing charter will see there is a distinct difference between the French and Dutch sides of St. Martin. French St. Martin is less commercialized than the Dutch side, even though it has some of the finest beaches and restaurants. The capital of Marigot is a charming mix of French chic and Caribbean tropical style. The main focus is the harbor, which is the departure point for ferries to Anguilla, St. Barths and Saba. It is also the site of a large colorful marketplace offering spices, flowers, and tropical produce. Side streets house a number of designer boutiques like Cartier, Hermes and Mont Blanc.

Heading north from Marigot, is the gastronomic capital of St. Martin- the little town of Grand Case. The most touted creativity in St. Martin is culinary, and this village alone offers dozens of choices lined up along the beachfront road. If you are looking for a break from your Caribbean sailing charter galley, this is the place to do it. With daily specials chalked up outside, Grand Case prides itself on its well-deserved reputation as one of the finest dining centers in the Eastern Caribbean. Wherever you opt to dine, you will not find a bad meal here! There are also several art galleries and a golden-sand beach that lines the wide sweeping bay.Continuing east from Grand Case, the road leads around a salt pond, which attracts many birds, to the tiny settlements of Anse Marcel and Cul de Sac. Sheltered Anse Marcel is a favorite spot with Caribbean cruisers who take advantage of the large resort there as well as the long sandy beach. Driving through the rolling countryside and mangrove swamps, you will come to Cul de Sac, characterized by its cute little red-roofed houses. Cul de Sac is the departure point for boats making day trips to Ilet Pinel, a pristine and uninhabited offshore island that offers excellent snorkeling and several lunch spots. Along the rough Atlantic shores of the east coast, there are several isolated beaches popular with windsurfers. Perhaps the best known beach in this area is Orient Beach. The area consists of a large development of hotels, villas and condos, but the beach itself is a fabulous swatch of brilliant white sand lapped by turquoise blue waves. As mentioned above, this beach is the hub for water sport activity. And, if you are looking to acquire an all-over tan, the Club Orient, a nudist resort, is located on the southern end of the beach. From Orient Beach, an easy day trip to the offshore isle of Tintamarre will also provide an unforgettable experience. The anchorage provides a nice rest for those on a Caribbean sailing charter that want to soak in the world-renowned mud baths. If you have had enough beach time on St. Martin, the Ferme aux Papillons is a good distraction. The best time to come is in the morning when this large collection of tropical butterflies is most active. Finally, continuing south, you will come to Oyster Pond, which is divided in half by the French/Dutch border. This is a well protected landlocked anchorage. If you are into buffets, Captain Olivier’s lays out an impressive

Caribbean spread with whole grilled grouper and lobsters, as well as various salads and desserts. The best beach in Oyster Pond is actually on the Dutch side. Dawn Beach is the perfect place to watch the sun come up as well as enjoy great views of St. Barths. There is good snorkeling offshore and the reefs lure scuba divers to their caves and cliffs. Beware, however, that the coast itself is wild and the waves can really roll in. The charter bases there recommend that you allow one of their captains to bring you in and it is best to heed their advice. Nightlife on the French side is usually quiet, although several of the hotels may have their own entertainment and there is often a Jump-Up in Grand Case on Friday and Saturday nights, especially between January and May.

Unlike the French side, the Dutch Sint Maarten is more commercialized and touristy. Other than the language and some of the names, there is little you can describe as characteristically Dutch. Although this side of the island is often crowded, there is plenty of fun to be had on the beaches and the numerous lively bars, restaurants and casinos. Philipsburg, the Dutch capital, is a lively commercial town unabashedly in search of the tourist dollar. Its main two roads, Front Street and Back Street, are linked by a series of narrow alleys supporting a cruise ship dock, several hotels, and perhaps the largest shopping center of the Leeward Islands. Front Street sells every sort of duty-free goods from alcohol and cigars, jewelry, cosmetics, perfumes, designer clothes, souvenirs, and electronics, while Back Street sells cheaper no-name goods. The town itself wraps around the long semicircular Great Bay Beach. It is not the most beautiful beach, but it has great views of Saba and offers numerous waterfront places to eat or drink.

Few people stay in Philipsburg, preferring instead the hotels, resorts and series of white sand beaches around the Simpson Bay Lagoon that dominates the west coast of St. Maarten. Maho Beach is often drowned out with noise as airplanes swoop down into Juliana airport. Nevertheless, the beach is very popular and the Sunset beach Bar is usually packed when the sun goes down. Millet Bay Beach is one of the more popular beaches. It is known for its gentle surf, white sugary sand and ample shade provided by numerous palm trees. The quieter Cupecoy Beach has long been clothing optional. It is a dramatic beach with richly colored limestone cliffs and caves. The best nightlife in terms of bars, nightclubs and casinos is on the Dutch side. For partygoers, there is something happening every night from small salsa bars to happy hour two for one specials and raucous booty-shaking music in the nightclubs.

A busy island shared between the Dutch and French, St. Martin is a haven for shoppers and sun seekers. It is a great destination for a Caribbean sailing charter. Whatever its origins, St. Martin’s border bisects the smallest landmass (37 square miles) in the world shared by two countries. The difference between the two is immense. The quieter St. Martin is decidedly French in style, developed on a small scale but including Parisian shopping and gourmet restaurants while Dutch St. Maarten is a party-goers delight with its resorts, casinos and fast-food chains. Whatever your pleasure, there is no other island like it in the Caribbean. Where else can you book a Caribbean sailing charter and explore two countries on one island? To experience this unique piece of paradise yourself, contact www.visailing.com. A tropical adventure under two countries is yours to discover.

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Written By Donna Wolfson of www.visailing.com
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A unique hiking traverse across the Annapurna Range into the Tibetan villages and monasteries of Upper Manang

TREK REPORT APRIL/MAY 2008:

I have to admit that this trek surpassed even my own high expectations. I have long desired to visit the remote Tibetan valleys of Naar and Phu located in the upper reaches of Nepal’s Manang District. My goal this spring was to travel with a small group and research a trekking route that would give the adventurous soul the opportunity to experience all of what I feel makes Nepal so very special and keeps many of us coming back for more - big mountain views, high pass crossings, remote trekking, some not so remote trekking and a rich helping of the Hindu and Buddhist cultures. This trek more than fills the bill.

Our trip began with a 7 hour drive in a private coach from Kathmandu westward across the lowland countryside to the bustling town of Besisahar. Nowadays you can drive a further 45 minutes or so on a rough dirt road to the village of Bhulbhule, which sits along the mighty Marshyangdi River. One of the great attractions of the Annapurna area is the fact that most treks start at a low elevation and gradually ascend. At 2,625 feet/800 meters, Bhulbhule Village makes for an excellent jumping off point to begin the acclimatization process. Over the next three days we gradually ascended the Marshyangdi River valley camping at the villages of Syange, Tal and Koto respectively. These were wonderful days to wander through villages as the locals were bustling about getting the fields ready for planting. On an autumn trek, we would see villagers busily harvesting the rice, wheat and vegetables our group witnessed them planting. In the middle hills of rural Nepal, daily life consists of a beautifully orchestrated list of chores in which all family members play a role. Upon reaching Koto at 8,660 feet, we truly had the sense that we were about to enter a very special place. Koto is the eastern gateway into Upper Manang. Ninety-nine percent of all trekkers camped here tonight will continue west on the main Annapurna trail tomorrow. In the morning, however, our small group is the fortunate 1% that will be heading north into the narrow canyon with the huge sheer rock walls that we can see from the campsite. It looks as though we will be walking into a Lord of the Rings movie! We are all very excited.

The Naar Phu region is the most remote of the Manang District and access is granted only with the purchase of a special permit. This area consists of two main villages - Naar with 300 permanent residents called Naar-ten and Phu with 200 permanent residents called Phu-ten. These remote villages are situated above treeline and completely cut off during the snowy winter months. Residents of these valleys make their livelihood mainly from herding yak and trading meat, wool and hides with the villages located in the lower regions of Manang. On this trek, we first make our way to Phu Village which is located in the northernmost corner of Upper Manang and only two days walk from Tibet. It takes four days of trekking to reach this remote community. En route we camped at the non-permanent winter settlements of Dharamsala, Meta and Kyang before finally crossing through the Phu Gate and arriving at this impressive walled citadel. We felt as if we had truly stumbled upon a lost civilization. Settled around the 10th Century by Tibetan herders and traders migrating south from Tibet, the inhabitants of Phu (also noted on maps as Phoo) once placed high value on their remote and strategic location. Tall stone lookout towers, now standing in ruins, where used to spot possible invaders coming from all directions and thick wooden doors where bolted shut at night locking the residents securely inside. We had the entire next day to explore this fascinating area. After a well appreciated late bed tea, our day was spent wandering around the village, visiting with the local school master who teaches 25 of the village’s children and had the great pleasure of sightseeing inside the Tashi Lakhang Monastery, which sits high above the village. Tashi Lakhang - ‘the blessed house of gods’ is one of the oldest monasteries (or gompas) in Manang. The gompa is one of 108 constructed by Lama Urgen Lhundup Gyatso and, along with the monastery in Braga, makes up the heart of spiritual life in the Manang District.

It takes two days to reach Naar, the principal and seemingly more prosperous village in these remote valleys. Naar, situated at 13,730 feet, is also called Chuprong meaning ‘the place of Blue Sheep’. The original inhabitants of this valley are believed to be from Tibet’s ancient Shang Sung Kingdom arriving sometime in the 8th Century and converted from Bon to Buddhism after the birth of Buddha in Lumbini. Naar Village sits above a large flat plain which make up the extensive agriculture fields being plowed by teams of humans and their yak. It seemed as though the entire village population were in the fields turning the soil and planting seeds in anticipation for the summer rains. Our camp was pitched above the village outside of the Shanti Lodge. We also had the option of staying in one of the lodge’s small rooms. As in Phu, wandering around the village and observing local life untainted by the outside world was fascinating. While visiting one of the village’s three gompas, I suddenly found myself trapped between a cow and her calf on one side and two yaks on the other. As I did not dare try to proceed in either direction, we all just stood there looking at each until an elderly woman came by smiling and cleared the cows out of the way.

From Naar, our path takes us on to a high plateau that gradually makes its way through prime Snow Leopard country to the end of the Naar Khola Valley. The Naar Phu region is known to have the largest population of Snow Leopard per square kilometer of any in Nepal. Only three hours up from Naar we made camp at 15,190 feet at an area called Naar Phedi. The top of the Kangla Pass is another 3 to 4 hours and 2,240 feet above us. At over 15,000 feet sleeping can be difficult and our 4am wake up came abruptly. However, an early escape from camp is necessary to give all of us enough time to safely ascend the last 100 to 150 snow covered meters to the pass. In fact, by the time we arrived at this last push (7:30am) to the large chorten marking the top, the snow was already soft and most of us consistently broke through. This was hard work at 17,000 feet! Our reward for the effort on little sleep? An INCREDIBLE VIEW of the Annapurna Range that few trekkers will ever witness. The scene played out before us stretched from east to west - Lamjung Himal (6988m), Annapurna II (7937m), Annapurna IV (7525m), Annapurna III (7555m), Gangapurna (7454m), Annapurna I (8091m) and beyond to Tilicho Peak and Nilgiri. This magnificent mountain view went a long way to making the 4 hour and 4,900 foot descent to the picturesque village of Ngawal enjoyable. Advil and a good evening meal helped me sleep quite soundly this evening.

After a week of trekking through a remote region where we did not see another group, the walk down to the main Annapurna Trail came as a shock. Not so much because of other fellow trekkers, but rather from the sight of lodges, stores, cafe, bakeries, internet and telephone services. I have to be honest, however, that once we settled in at our camping spot in Manang Village I had no hesitation in joining the others at one of the local cafes for a fresh coffee and chocolate danish. In Manang, I highly recommend a visit to the Manang Vujek Gompa built in the year 1100 by the Lama Kusho Wangyal. This gompa has an outstanding collection of old wall paintings and is open daily from 10am to 6pm.

We now proceeded on the popular Annapurna Circuit and joined other trekkers on the pilgrimage over the Thorong La pass (17,765 feet). The Annapurna and Everest areas of Nepal have the reputation of being crowded and possibly undesirable, but there is a reason these areas are so popular - they are simply beautiful! After many years of trekking in the Himalayas, I am always amazed at how blown away I am every time I visit Nepal. From Manang we made the trek to the traditional camps at Yak Kharka (13,250ft) and then up to Thorong La High Camp at 16,010 feet. Being well acclimatized by this point, we decided to stop for lunch at Thorong Phedi and then continue an hour further up to the High Camp. Again, sleeping this high makes it hard to get a restful night of sleep but we had a 3:30am wake up and it was certainly great to have a shorter day when crossing the pass. It snowed quite a bit today so we were all quite anxious to get up and over as early as possible. The Thorong La pass is a bit higher than the Kangla pass but rather straight forward. The trail up is a series of steps consisting of a moderate climb and then an area of level walking. Many in the group thought these to be false summits but the climbing was rather moderate. The top of the pass is adorned with hundreds of colorful prayer flags and a sign welcoming you to the summit. There is even a small hut serving hot tea. The new snow from the day before made this morning even more spectacular. The view back to the Annapurna Range was superb! Every good uphill brings with it a very good downhill and it is 4 hours and 5,300 feet down to our camp in the holy town of Muktinath.

The last day on trek was a very pleasant walk gradually down to Jomsom. After a leisurely morning we set out on the “road” passing by and giving a ‘namaste’ to the Hindu pilgrims making their way to the temples in Muktinath. We visited the monasteries at Jharkot and Kagbeni (the gateway to Upper Mustang) before making the windy approach along the riverbed (look out for fossils) to the airstrip village of Jomsom. The next day we were back in the comforts of the Hotel Shanker drinking expresso and eating Indian food by the pool in the gardens.

Like I said awhile back, this trip has it all.

Thanks for reading. If you like any additional information please contact me for a trip itinerary. You can also view the trip’s page on the website.

All the Best,

Andy Crisconi, One World Trekking info@oneworldtrekking.com ; Oneworldtrekking.com 1-970-945-2601